Download the fantastic book titled Surfing and the Meaning of Life written by Ben Marcus, available in its entirety in both PDF and EPUB formats for online reading. This page includes a concise summary, a preview of the book cover, and detailed information about "Surfing and the Meaning of Life", which was released on 01 January 1970. We suggest perusing the summary before initiating your download. This book is a top selection for enthusiasts of the Surfers genre.
Summary of Surfing and the Meaning of Life by Ben Marcus PDF
All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole style-even a philosophy-of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life-or at least an enjoyable read. With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush. The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young
Detail About Surfing and the Meaning of Life PDF
- Author : Ben Marcus
- Publisher : Anonim
- Genre : Surfers
- Total Pages : 108 pages
- ISBN : 9781610606851
- Release Date : 01 January 1970
- PDF File Size : 22,9 Mb
- Language : English
- Rating : 5/5 from 1 reviews
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